Christine Balaz

Sweden's West Coast: A Wedding and Extracurricular Climbing

2011-08-12T01:22:00.012-06:00

Last weekend we went to a family wedding on the west coast of Sweden, in Stenungsund. The wedding ceremony took place on Saturday afternoon, so we managed a morning sport climbing session on Saturday and a brief bouldering tour on Sunday.

Sport climbing near Stengungsund. Very fun, though short, schist cliff.

Sport climbing near Stenungsund

View across the way from the cliff

Site of the wedding

View from the reception hall

Fisher cabins

The bride and groom arrive by boat.

Jakob "Wild Pony" Strömner graciously tours us around his legendary haunts near Stenungsund.

So solid, bro'. So solid.

Missingmyr, Norway: Climbing + Swimming

2011-08-01T07:19:00.013-06:00

On Saturday we loaded up the car for a 1.5-day trip to Missingmyr, Norway for some sport climbing. Though we only had 30 hours, we still fit in two nearly full days of climbing, some Norwegian Yatzee, and a dip in the ocean -thanks to the long Scandinavian summer daylight hours.

Norwegian landscape.

The short approach into Missingmyr; note the cliff band, visible through the trees.

A small cliff with a dense collection of routes at a great angle.

At a campsite nearby.

Judging.

Norwegian coastline.

The customary Swedish fika.

Sweden!

2011-07-28T03:06:00.013-06:00

Iceland Express stops in Reykjavik. Where are all the trees?

Ah! Back in Sweden!!!

Svenskpotatis

Into the forest to find some cantarella mushrooms

Not in Utah anymore

Cantarella mushrooms

Moose print

More cantarella mushrooms

Raspberries aka Hallon

Local (and really good) bouldering at Dye. Though water was actually running down the holds, the Swedes insisted it was dry. "It's amazing what chalk will do."

Indeed we could climb!

Swimming and leisure at Vänern

Vänern, Sweden's largest lake

Back in Dye. A cinematographer filming himself cleaning up the bottom of many problems

Classics In Dye from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

A video from David on Dye's classics

New Hampshire/ Vermont Family Reunion

2011-07-28T02:11:00.011-06:00

It's been about 10 or more years since my mom's side of the family has properly gotten together -so we all decided to meet during July near Stowe, Vermont.

Old keys at my grandmother's house

Fitzwilliam, New Hampshire, from my grandmother's window

Driving up to Lake Mansfield

The Lake Mansfield Trout Club

Boating on Lake Mansfield

Uncle Nat arrives from Boston

Hiking a lot longer than we expected to

Lake Mansfield from above

Hiking Hunger Mountain with good friends, Sara and Jen (from college)

Jen atop a mountain
Sara on the summit

So much water!

Back in Fitzwilliam, New Hampshire, at the Laurel Lake Swim Club

Steve getting ready to swim

Lobsters going for a swim at Mimi's house

Peace Out, Montana. Hello, East Coast, Sweden!

2011-07-11T14:57:00.010-06:00

I've had a quick few days in Bozeman to deal with losing my old laptop and hang out with my family. My dad, brother and I went on hikes every day.

Now I leave for the East Coast (Vermont, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire), and then Sweden for two months!

Peace Out, Ten Sleep!

2011-07-09T17:24:00.014-06:00

My time in Ten Sleep couldn't have been better this summer! The people and climbing made this month of June one of my best in years!

Here is one last batch of photos from the trip.

Jodi Mayer climbing at the Psychoactive Wall in Leigh Creek.

Me in the same place.

Jody

Andy Mann and Sheyna Button

Andy Mann onsighting As Wicked as it Seems (.12a), Godfather Boulder.

Kevin desperately trying to get some air.

Ten Sleep Hard Bodies.

Ape Index Door

Ten Sleep in the Rear View Mirror: A Sad Sight

Dog Wash + Independence Day + Friends from Around

2011-07-05T16:57:00.006-06:00

The days have really been passing too quickly here in ol' Ten Sleep, Wyoming. It seems the hot weather and some unseasonably high gravity have been making the body-dragging a bit tougher.

We've been supplementing the climbing days with fun activities like dog washes, a non-festival festival, the 4th of July, and more lifestyle shots.

Both dogs are still alive, despite having just experienced the most terrifying, fireworks-rich nights of their lives.

Hey kids! Don't forget your ATCs. Billy, stranded, after discovering a random rap anchor at the top of a climb.

Aaron Huey atop the boulder.

Full-charge Charlie serving some delicious, delicious BBQed chicken.

Sunset over Ten Sleep Canyon. (Elizabeth Neilson photo)

A whole flock of Salt Lakers in Ten Sleep.

Victor Colussi makes a helmet face.

Superratic Wall: Climbing Deluxe

2011-06-29T10:59:00.011-06:00

As I've said before, climbing isn't just about climbing. It's also about taking sick lifestyle shots. This can include trips to Worland for groceries.

The wildflowers continue to bloom in intense waves in Ten Sleep Canyon.

K-money Wilkipants working on F'ed in the A (.14a), Superratic Wall.

(Alli Rainey Photo)

Me looking fancy on Neutral Spirit (.13a), Superratic. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Neutral Spirit. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Neutral. SO fancy. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Jedi looking even fancier. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Steve is pissed off about the thousands of mosquitos.

Neutral Spirit. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Dog whispering.

Neutral Spirit. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Alli working on F'ed in the A.

Same.

Cold hands.

Flexin' guns on F'ed in the A.

F'ed in the A.

Cedar found a lethargic baby marmot. For real.

No Way! Actual Climbing Photos from Ten Sleep

2011-06-27T01:00:00.000-06:00

Though it's been difficult to snap a lot of climbing photos recently, I just swapped memory cards with Alli, who's been kind to share hers with me. Below are a series of photos from her camera.

Billy Brown, from Alabama, tries the Hellion. Superratic Wall.

Billy on Hellion.

Tricks for You, Superratic Pillar.

Same.

Getting ready to ta en promenad på berget.

Jedi waddling along under his saddlebags.

Alli trying to get F'ed in the A.

Dan Moncur on Great White Behemoth.

Holy crap, that's a lot of water.

The National Guard here to help with flooding problems.

Post-climbing bouldering/ campusing.

Me trying to make Gord proud with figure 4's and figure 9's.

Ten Sleep: Tired Body

2011-06-26T09:41:00.009-06:00

The days keep rolling by too quickly in Ten Sleep. Though I feel like I could stay here forever, my month-long trip has long passed its half-way point.

I can feel it in my body, too; despite surely gaining more endurance and familiarity with the rock over these last few weeks, I'm starting to see a marked slump in my climbing. The last week has definitely shown a decline in performance and admittedly in morale, too.

That said, I'm going to take a few back-to-back rest days, eat the hell out of some meat, and hope for some recovery. There are so many good routes here that I'd like to be able to try, but the fact is: my body has to be fresh enough to drag itself up them!

Yesterday I went to the Valhalla Wall with a new friend, Billy, from Alabama. It was great to warm up on some new, very fun routes. Since it was just two of us, we took no actual "climbing" photos-- but I've posted some general pictures below, anyhow.

Wildflowers in bloom like crazy here.

Which way? Oh. Left.

The Valhalla Wall.

Looking at the classic .11 b, Bikini Girls with Machine Guns (to the left) and Bikini Wax (.12 a) with the rope on it.

Back at Slavery Wall. Taking the draws off of Crown Prince Abdullah. I really want to finish this route some day (and think I can if I'm fresh), but also need to give my mind a break at this point in time. Billy nearly flashed it, but fell off the first boulder problem. He lowered and sent it second go!

Ten Sleep Views

2011-06-22T19:39:00.005-06:00

Good thing this box wasn't packed with eggs.

Ten Sleep, Cont'd

2011-06-19T15:35:00.010-06:00

Climbing in Ten Sleep has continued to amaze. The weather is definitely still too cold to climb in the shade, so we're trying to maximize our hours in the sun. We've gotten a bit lazy about taking photos in the last week, but here are a few...

Hiking up to the Mondo Wall

Construction between Worland (i.e. groceries) and Ten Sleep, turning a 25-mile drive into a 1.5 hour extravaganza

Mountain dog!

The Superratic Wall and this oft-photographed wall with Great White Behemoth (and others)

Some of the many folks who swing by for a Ten Sleep visit

Oh yeah, that's our Wyoming climbing rig.

Wildflowers up the wazoo

Hiking around the area

OMG, Ten Sleep is SOOOOOOOOOOOOO GOOOOOOOOOOD

2011-06-11T15:14:00.014-06:00

Today was my first climbing day at Ten Sleep Canyon -and I'm SO HAPPY to be climbing on a rope again! This month, I'll be staying with Alli Rainey and Kevin Wilkinson -and today they let me come along as the third person in their party. Mind you, this is kind of like a tricycle with two shiny, spinny wheels and one that's all sticky and bent. But no matter, they belayed my silly body up some of the most fun climbs I've done in a while!

Today we climbed at the Slavery Wall, which sometimes goes by the name of "Poop Your Pants Because Climbing is so Fun Wall". The best part about climbing three is that someone can be taking pictures all the time. So we busted out the cameras and went to town.

Stealth Kevin camouflages himself cleverly to blend in with the rock. (Alli Rainey Photo)

This photo was actually rotated 90 degrees clockwise, and Kevin's just standing on the ground. (Alli Rainey Photo)

(Alli Rainey Photo)

Majestic birds and climber

Folks from Colorado, Montana, Texas, and more all parking the proper way

Kevin on a big linkup of a bunch of routes I can't remember. The resulting amalgamation name is something like "Big Penis Dumptruck Burden Backflip". I promise to pay more attention to route names and other specifics in the future. (Alli Rainey Photo)

Fancy lady on Jackabite (Kevin Wilkinson Photo)

Resting because this is more than 10 moves. (Kevin Wilkinson Photo)

The sweet, sweet Happiness in Slavery. (Kevin Wilkinson Photo)

Smiling because I planned ahead and wore a diaper. (Kevin Wilkinson Photo)

Sorry you're still belaying me, Alli, on Happiness in Slavery. (Kevin Wilkinson Photo)

(Kevin Wilkinson Photo)

The wall from the approach.

Alli climbing the crack shared by many routes as the start.

Alli approaching the start of her route

Jedi

Hippy photo time

Catching sick air, bra

Looking up Ten Sleep Canyon from Poop Your Pants Wall

Seven Hours to Ten Sleep

2011-06-09T20:03:00.008-06:00

Today I had 430 miles of nearly perfect driving conditions: strong (mostly) tail wind and patchy clouds.

Driving east of Echo Canyon, Utah

In Wyoming, Utah's tallest range, the Uinta Mountains, are visible to the south

Car turns 210,000 miles

Blast from the Eastern Montana past

Dropping down into the town of Ten Sleep, just beyond these hills

Peace out, Utah; Next Stop: Wyoming!

2011-06-09T08:50:00.002-06:00

I've got this post cleverly auto-scheduled to load while I'm on the road. If you're reading this, then I'm already gone! Next stop:

1000 Miles of Driving, 1118 Photos, and 30 Miles of Running: Utah's (Western) National Parks (and more) in 72 Hours

2011-06-07T14:26:00.039-06:00

On Thursday of last week, I took off for southwestern Utah to spiff up my photo collection on Utah's national parks and monuments -and nearby state parks.

I went from Salt Lake to Cedar Breaks National Monument, Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Kodachrome Basin State Park, Escalante, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument's Smokey Mountain and Hole in the Rock roads, Devil's Garden, UT 12 and its Hog's Back Section, the Escalante River Trailhead, Lower Calf Creek Falls, Petrified Forest State Park, Boulder, Boulder Mountain and Boulder Mountain National Forest, Torrey, and Capitol Reef National Park.

In order to see all of this and get a lot of new off-road photos and vistas, I had time only to run these trails with my camera in a ziplock bag; walking would have been too slow! It was incredibly fun, but draining as well...

Driving up canyon from Panguitch toward Brian Head Resort and Cedar Breaks National Monument.

Still snowy up high near Cedar Breaks.

Cedar Breaks scenic overlook

In Zion National Park, my first run: up to Angel's Landing

Looking down Zion Canyon from 1/2 way up the Angel's Landing Trail

The Angel's Landing trail above Hidden Canyon

The final and steepest/ most exposed pitch of the Angel's Landing Trail. Amazingly, a significant number of the people at the top were in their 60s and 70s.

View up Zion Canyon from the top of Angel's Landing

Heading back down

Leaving Zion National Park on UT 9/ Zion-Mt Carmel Highway. The beautiful slick rock is much different than the deep canyons to the west.

Briefly out of red rock country and heading northeast toward Bryce Canyon.

A quick preview of what's to come in Red Canyon.

In Bryce Canyon National Park, the horses seem to be taking the proper trail.

View down into the Queen's Garden on the Navajo Loop Trail

Descending into the Queen's Garden

Hikers ascending the Navajo Loop trail back to the rim

Kodachrome Basin State Park, on the northwestern end of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

Petroglyphs above my campsite on Smokey Mountain Road (south of Escalante) in the G.S.E.N.M.

Stones in the wash along Smokey Mountain Road

Looking north from Smokey Mountain Road toward Escalante

Views west from Hole in the Rock Road

Endless washboards on Hole in the Rock Road

The Devil's Garden, 12.5 miles south of UT 12 on Hole in the Rock Road

Heading back north toward UT 12 on Hole in the Rock Road

Driving east on UT 12 toward Boulder

Lower Calf Creek Falls

Hanging gardens at Lower Calf Creek Falls (between Escalante and Boulder), Grand Staircase-Escalante N.M.

UT 12 meandering its way up slickrock

In Petrified Forest State Park, a non-petrified plant

A petrified LOG

The reservoir of the Petrified Forest State Park in Escalante as viewed from the hiking trail. I swam in this to rinse off after two days of running.

The Hog's Back section of UT 12 between Escalante and Boulder

Ascending Boulder Mountain

Boulder Mountain sits high, high up above the surround red rock country

Bad dogs peace out on Boulder Mountain

View east and down from Boulder Mountain

Scenic pullout on the Boulder Mountain Road; views of the many features of the Grand Staircase possible from along this road

Entering Capitol Reef National Park from the west

Free camping on BLM land just west of Capitol Reef

The Castle in Capitol Reef

Blacksmith Shop in Capitol Reef National Park

Grand Wash in Captiol Reef National Park

Trailhead in the Grand Wash of Captiol Reef National Park

The Narrows of Capitol Reef National Park's Grand Wash

Scenic Drive in Capitol Reef National Park

UT 24 west of Torrey

UT 50 between Salina and Scipio

12,000+ Miles in less than Five Months

2011-05-31T22:16:00.015-06:00

Since Jan 9, we've taken dozens of trips to climb from Salt Lake City, including several to Moe's Valley (St. George, Utah), two to Bishop, California, one to Moab and Kane Springs Canyon, three to Bozeman, Montana, and a *buttload* to Joe's Valley.

I'm about to leave Salt Lake City for the summer. I'll spend the first month in Ten Sleep, Wyoming trying to remind my forearms how to climb more than ten moves at a time. After that, I'll head to Sweden where I'll hopefully get to boulder, trad climb, and sport climb.

JOE'S VALLEY, UTAH

David sending Beyond Live (Gustavo Moser photo).

Sucking in Joe's 3 from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

BISHOP, CALIFORNIA

Bishop from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

MOAB: KANE SPRINGS CANYON, UTAH

MOE'S VALLEY, UTAH

Yankee Jim Canyon, Montana

2011-05-27T10:26:00.003-06:00

We decided to spend the last week of May up in Montana with the family -but we've been plagued by rain and sickness for the bulk of the trip. Luckily, a short glimpse of sun gave us the chance to go out and take a tour of the local bouldering with "the last cowboy".

The Last Cowboy from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Season Finale: Sucking in Joe's

2011-05-20T09:24:00.002-06:00

Sucking in Joe's 4 from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Sucking in Utah: Everyone's Favorite Series Goes State-Wide

2011-05-15T19:54:00.013-06:00

Well, it turns out that we're not the only ones sucking in Joe's. The weather also sucks in Joe's sometimes -and recently it's been either so rainy or so hot that we've been unable to climb at all or unable to climb to the top of anything.

And really the weather hasn't even been that bad. But it's definitely starting to seem like bouldering season is over in this part of the world.

Anyway- we didn't feel like driving all the way to Joe's again today -so we kept it local and ran immediately into friends Myranda "I'm Watching You" Bair, Arthur Debowski, and Jason Danforth all trying to drag their bodies up the boulders of Little Cottonwood Canyon.

The conditions in Little were certainly far from "sending temps", but we climbed the hell out of that place. And when we ran out of fingertip skin, we played fun and invasive games with soothing banana peels.

Untitled from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

"Sucking in Joe's III"

2011-05-10T08:36:00.004-06:00

The video has arrived!

Sucking in Joe's 3 from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Apologies for the Silence

2011-05-04T13:08:00.015-06:00

Apologies for the silence recently! Though we've been taking lots of trips (to Joe's Valley), I haven't been taking many pictures.

A few weeks ago, a Nikon D5100 joined the family, and since then I've relinquished all photographic and cinematographic responsibilities.

Though this camera takes amazing video, there have been a few bugs with the editing software-- and therefore difficulties completing movie projects.

But it seems a solution has been found, and a new movie is on its way.

On a different note, Isaac Caldiero just put out a hot-off-the-press guidebook to Joe's Valley. If you're going to Joe's bring $25 cash and look for Isaac's gold Saturn (or brown + white RV) cruising around.

Meanwhile, here is a some short video clip.

Freak (V10)

Freak from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

The Long Road Back: Sport Climbing aka Body Dragging

2011-04-29T10:47:00.012-06:00

It's hard to get really motivated to train endurance (or anything) when you aren't even sure where you're going to be in a month-- but now that it's finally getting warmer (at least once in a while), we decided to make good on the idea we've had to climb early in the morning before afternoon work meetings.

So the other day, we got up at 6:00 am and headed to American Fork Canyon to theoretically begin the route climbing season.

Of course, it's much harder to take rope-climbing photos (than it is to take bouldering photos) when there is just two of you-- but it's still pretty easy to take some sick lifestyle shots.

Studying some chemistry afterward while David practices using his new camera.

Tickets to + from Scandinavia July-Sept

2011-04-26T12:41:00.003-06:00

I just completed the purchase of a mulit-city ticket combo heading from Bozeman, Montana in the middle of July, to Boston, Massachusetts for a week, and then to Tight Pants, Sweden for a few months -hopefully with a lot of climbing in Bohuslän, on Sweden's west coast.

Joe's Valley Fri + Sat

2011-04-17T15:36:00.004-06:00

Here's a video David made about the weekend's trip. Pretty fun- though it was my turn for "sucking in Joe's" this time.

Anyway- it was great for the soul to see some sun and run into + climb with friends.

Sucking in Joe's 2 from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Guess where we're going...

2011-04-14T20:28:00.002-06:00

Video of the Trip

2011-04-12T12:24:00.001-06:00

Here's a movie that David made from our 1.5-day, sprint trip to Joe's Valley.

Sucking in Joe's from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Not all climbing movies have to be cool.

... at the First Glimpse of Sunshine

2011-04-10T10:18:00.002-06:00

We're heading to Joe's! Be back Monday night....

Weekend Weather

2011-04-07T08:23:00.004-06:00

Not looking so hot...

Competition at The Front

2011-04-07T08:15:00.004-06:00

After the trip to Bishop, I needed a week off. So instead of going to Joe's Valley or anywhere else, we decided to stay in town. But The Front was having a competition, so I thought, "Wow- I'm actually going to be in town this weekend; I can do this!" Flawed logic. But it was fun!

Here's the link to the results from The Front. No pictures yet, but maybe soon...

Crappy Weather

2011-04-04T19:48:00.004-06:00

Somebody must have done something pretty bad, because God seems to be crying on the entirety of Utah this weekend.

But I have four days off, so I'm hellbent on climbing. Looks like Vegas might be the answer?

Bishop Collage

2011-03-28T19:54:00.003-06:00

Bishop from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Here's a video of some of the recent trips' climbing by David Sjoquist. Enjoy!

Send Train, Choo Choo

2011-03-23T16:02:00.012-06:00

Crap-tastic weather outside makes inside weather so much nicer.

Getting the most out of the hotel room: Shower for all!

The next day (Monday): David trying Los Locos (now broken at the top) in The Sads.

Tuesday in The Milks: Liesel getting ready to send the hell out of a really, really fun V5 on the Smooth Shrimp boulder.

Climbing isn't just about the climbing. It's also about taking sick lifestyle shots.

Liesel is too badass for her skin.

David topped out on Grandma Peabody twice and once on Grandpa. Here he's setting up a top rope for freakin' Evilution -past the lip.

Bishop: Making the Best of Increasingly Harsh Weather

2011-03-20T22:14:00.022-06:00

When we left Salt Lake for a ~12-day trip to Bishop, the weather looked perfect. Even a bit too warm for bouldering. But as soon as we arrived, so to did a massive storm front with persistent, strong winds, snow, rain, and more winds.

Weather.com: "Blasted in the West: Super Wet and Windy West Coast"

Liesel chowing down on her favorite: sandwiches.

So that's what all the wind was bringing in: Morning in The Buttermilks after our first bad storm (Saturday morning).

Time to head down to the Tablelands.

Cooking breakfast on the way up to The Sads. Where I'm really excited to climb because its lack of crimpers allows me to try hard in spite of my finger injuries!

Climbing that same day (Saturday): David warming up on the "No P"-- unknown stem problem that should be much longer. ("No P" visible in chalk, in David's shadow.)

Alex sending Hauck a Loogie (V3) during our warmup session at the top of The Sads.

Steve trying Molly (V6). We have to go back and send this!

Nature Liesel and her stick brush.

Cool formations at The Sads.

Looking down the canyon of The Sads; view of Eastern Sierras in background.

David sending French Press (V6)...

... (sending again. Sent three times?)

...and the weather finally got so bad (Sat night/ Sun morning, March19/20) that we finally caved: packed up the tent at 4:30 am in blowing rain/ snow, and headed into the Motel 6.

Attempt to dry out/ de-mud some of our stuff.

We're really on vacation now: breakfast at Denny's, including an order of all-you-can-eat pancakes.

A trip back up to the table lands to retrieve some of our last goods left in the storm

What's next?

Weather looks great again, starting on Tuesday. Still in the hotel tonight, and hoping for climbable weather in The Sads tomorrow... have quite a few problems to wrap up there!

Below are some videos from friend, Steve Marcil:

Me doing The Sheephearder (?, V2)

Issues in the morning after a windy, sleepless night.

The final kicker-outer (of the Milks)- time to move down to The Tablelands.

Bishop Mar 16-27

2011-03-18T14:24:00.007-06:00

Students are on spring break, so we took off to Bishop! The once perfect-looking weather has shifted to a sketchy forecast- but we're already here-- so are just gonna hope for the best.

Photos of the drive to Bishop, and the first day there, below. More climbing photos to follow.

The long drive across Nevada.

View of Buttermilks Main from the Painted Cave.

Elizabeth and Liesel contemplating a bizarre-o problem.

Liesel and Kevin holding a wake for Nate Dogg.

Andrew returning the lantern that he tried to steal.

David trying to deal with the returned lantern.

Alex navigating the shrubbery.

Tents in the sand.

The day's location.

Joe's Valley: Take One AKA "The Shut Down"

2011-03-13T13:46:00.007-06:00

Last weekend, we did season-first trip to Joe's Valley. For a lot of reasons, the climbing smashed us- so we retreated to Salt Lake City to rest for as many days as possible before our upcoming Bishop trip. Anyway. Here are some photos. (More next time!)

Coal Mines near New Joe's.

(There is almost no climbing in this movie, but there's some pretty sweet driving and car dancing.)

Kane Springs Canyon + Indian Creek

2011-03-10T08:32:00.009-07:00

Last weekend, my friend Zac Robinson and I headed to Kane Springs Canyon (near Moab) and Indian Creek. On the first day, we climbed the Predator Tower, a muddy little spire on the canyon edge. After that, we went to the Creek-- but I'm not posting any pictures of that, because all you'd see is toproping and crying.

Kane Springs Canyon as it opens into a proper valley.

Zac Robinson Photo

The tower we're going to climb - Predator Tower. (Wooooah.)

Zac Robinson Photo

Wide-angle lenses aren't flattering for anyone up close.

Zac Robinson Photo

View from Belay Station

Zac Robinson Photo

Topping out is Scary on this One
Sitting on top.

Looking down.

Calling the dog.

Zac Robinson Photo

The wind is blowing.

Zac Robinson Photo

Crossing the river.

Zac Robinson Photo

Checking out The Devil's Golf Ball.

Devil's Golf Ball.

Helmet Climbing

2011-03-03T22:45:00.009-07:00

"Professional climbing gear with helmet pulley and carabiner."

I'm heading south with my friend, Zac, tomorrow morning -nice and early.

He told me we should bring our helmets. I don't know why you ever would need a helmet for rock climbing, so maybe we're gonna climb some wooden poles or weird ladders or something.

The Diet

2011-02-25T19:58:00.007-07:00

Weight gain is a slow, almost imperceptible process. But sure enough, it looks like Steve and I have each gained a few pounds in the last month.

Even though it was for her own good, Steve was pissed when we got her some new food.

But it's OK. We're gonna trim down together. It only takes a little bit of time and effort.
The long, stationary road: getting back in shape.

Comp/ Bouldering in Little Cottonwood

2011-02-15T10:17:00.006-07:00

This weekend, we had to stay in town, as Lakebranch had to build problems for a competition at The Front. Having not done competitions in many years, I decided to sign up and do it!

Plastic Passion Comp at The Front/ Saturday

The next day, the weather was VERY nice, so we decided to head up to Little Cottonwood Canyon to boulder. My guidebook was up in Montana - D's skin was split and unclimbable - and I was tired from the comp, so we mostly went up to explore and get some fun slab climbing in.

Driving into Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Me on an unknown, dry slab by the Beer Can Cave.

Eating lunch and taking a coffee in the warm sun.

David doing some blank, blank, wet slabs in on the Offwidth Slab boulder (not sure of exact name).

David on the Shingles Boulder

Moe's Valley, Part Deux

2011-02-09T08:20:00.008-07:00

Another long weekend meant it was time to head south again to Moe's Valley for three days of climbing and one rest day of hiking around.

Me climbing Is Rail (V6).

Is Rail from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

Video of me not sending Is Rail. (I did send it later.)

Coffee and food in the morning.

Walking my way to Health.

Rest day exploration up by the Power Lines. (More walking to health.)

Warming up at the Device Igniter Boulder.

...leaving just in time.

American binge.

Me trying unnamed "h" (v8) on the TeePee Boulder.

Doing the left variation of this roof problem, TeePee Boulder.

Traversing around the Monkey Boy Boulder on the last day

Untitled from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

Steve doing her job.

Do Your Job, Steve

2011-02-08T11:20:00.003-07:00

Untitled from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

Buttermilks, Bishop, CA

2011-02-02T12:52:00.021-07:00

Here's the actual post: A five-day trip to Bishop (including 530 miles's driving each way and three climbing days) at the Buttermilks- our first time there.

Tree of Life, near I-80, Utah

Much-needed rest stop near Wendover, UT

Nevada begins

...and continues

Cop shop in Bishop

Sunrise on the Buttermilks

Sunrise on the Eastern Sierras

Cave Boulder

A Birthing Experience

Getting acquainted with the Buttermilks

It was NICE weather

Rest day exploration of Buttermilks Main

Green Wall Essential (V2)

Kevin "Mark" Hatfield going way up there

Checking out the Checkerboard Boulder

Eastern Sierras pokin' up

Beast!

Beautiful valley in Buttermilks country

Rest day hiking

Cold, cold third and final day of climbing

Milking the Milks, Tut Boulder

Me sending Milking the Milks (V6).

David sending the sit start to a problem on the Tut Boulder (V6).

Tut Boulder

Warming up on The Prow (V2), Birthday Boulders

Dave working Stained Glass (V10)

Applying children's SPF 30 sunblock

A wild, wild animal

The Buttermilks Main from adjacent mountain.

Me trying to figure out how to drag my body up the Cave Route.

Lakebranch sending Soul Slinger

Dave flashing another problem, High Plains Drifter.

Whoopsy-Poopsie: Going to Bishop!

2011-01-27T12:27:00.006-07:00

When the (little) work I had for the rest of the week cancelled, we decided to take advantage of this (hopefully rare) opportunity and head directly to Bishop. More later; the upload here is painfully slow! (But meanwhile, here's a sick "lifestyle shot".)

SLC -> Moe's Valley

2011-01-24T12:13:00.006-07:00

After a few years of "vagabond" living, I've decided to move back to Salt Lake-- to be able to earn money, sleep in a bed, subscribe to NetFlix, take showers without sandals, go to yoga, train in a gym, etc... etc... I'm also living in a house of climbers, all of whom are very motivated to take multiple trips every month to nearby deserts... about a week ago, we all went to Moe's Valley, down by St. George, Utah. Even though it was snowing in Salt Lake when we left, we had highs near 60 F with lots of sun.

Hippie carpool: four humans, two dogs, four crashpads, two tents, etc... etc... strapped to and crammed in one '95 Subaru Legacy.

Bread, Nutella, avacado, egg.

Highballing up at the Dragonfly Boulder.

View from the high plateau.

Thawing in the morning sun.

The Kung-Pao Boulder.

Yours truly on Sichuan Peppercorn, Kung-Pao Boulder

Are your knees over your toes?

2010-12-17T18:12:00.004-07:00

That's where they're supposed to be. Don't turn 'em in. Huh-uh. No, no, no, no, no.

A Nature Walk in Turkey... on the Main Road

2010-09-27T10:09:00.005-06:00

Just some more amazing tufa climbing here... (We haven't even climbed here yet.)

Extreme Turkish Wildlife, Parts 2 and 2.5

2010-09-25T12:42:00.006-06:00

Just when you think it's safe to wash your underwear...

Untitled from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

We're Not in the Gym Anymore: Extreme Turkish Wildlife/// Episode One

2010-09-23T11:03:00.011-06:00

A new life stlye series.

Extreme Turkish Wildlife I from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

The Swedish Warmup Strikes Again!

2010-09-21T10:33:00.004-06:00

Turkey/ JoSiTo

2010-09-20T13:00:00.010-06:00

Getting ready to head back to Arlanda/ Stockholm by bus
Karlstad bus station
E 18

Waiting for the 2:45 am first flight to Turkey

Visa

Batman

Busting out of Antalya, heading for the hills

En route to the mountains/ JoSiTo

Favorite beer here

Catching some shut-eye

Checking out the Umgebung

Post 45 or 50 hours of travel in four or five days

Getting ready for Everest

Man in the bar

Manning the bar

Home for seven weeks

Post red-eye from Sweden, 95F/ 35 C

Working in the kitchen

Haircut

Sverige

2010-09-20T12:12:00.006-06:00

Arriving in Stockholm/ Arlanda

Driving to Karlstad on the E 18

Swedish Countryside

Making whipped cream.

Late evening fika.

Pride

Strange Swedish culture

En route to the 50-year-olds' birthday party

Goodbye Montana; Hello Sweden, Turkey

2010-09-07T10:38:00.007-06:00

Tomorrow I'll take three planes to Stockholm, Sweden. Will spend a few days there, and then head right to the Antalya region of Turkey to climb and stay at the climber hostel/ camp, JoSiTo for seven weeks. The climbing there looks amazing...

After that, it's back to Sweden for November/ early December.

More soon!

BOOK 3.5 DONE

2010-08-29T18:31:00.004-06:00

("Book 3.5", as in: prior to this [1+], I've written two other first editions [2+] and one 2nd edition on another of mine [+.5= 3.5]; therefore...)

Next stop: EUROPE and some posts of actual interest!

100 Push Ups

2010-08-20T13:37:00.006-06:00

David and coworker, Hasse, decided (somehow??) that they were going to train to be able to do 100 consecutive pushups.

There's a website,

www.hundredpushups.com

that claims, no matter how many push ups you can do now- in six weeks, you should pretty much be able to do 100 in a row.

The first step is taking a test: how many can you do right now?

Based on that, there's a regimen for each of the three different ability groups (0-5; 6-10; 11-20). Three different workouts, three times a week. If you can complete each workout, you can move onto the next week.

To my surprise, I could actually do 17 yesterday - which was a BIG surprise, because there have been recent times when I couldn't do a single, normal pushup... (David did 55 because he's rude.) And today I started doing the actual workouts; I started with the 3rd workout of the week, so I could be on schedule with David and Hasse (11, 15, 9, 9, max - all separated by 120 seconds). I got through the first part fine, but had a hard time finishing the set!

Here are some videos so you can check out the dog hair on the floor.

Long Time, No See// Sweden-Bound

2010-08-19T10:53:00.010-06:00

View from near Snowbird summit, Utah.

It's been so long since posting that (oopsie-poopsie) my blog doesn't come up in my own URL window.

Pete's Hill, Bozeman

That's because I haven't been doing anything exciting -no climbing, almost no travelling. Rather: working, working and trying to not climb.

View of Hyalite Mountains From Baseline Road, North of Bozeman

But just a few days ago, I booked a flight to Stockholm, Sweden (Sept 8-Dec 6).

The last couple of 3 or 4 years have been nothing but a landslide of seemingly unrelated injuries. Some old, but most totally new.

So this summer, I've been staying up in Montana. Writing an iPhone app and a book, and healing.

In the Near-Final Throes of Editing

But I've been putting lots of money in the bank, so to speak. Running and road biking to keep up the cardio. Yoga and stretching to strengthen and stretch. Lifting weight to work the antagonists. Living in a house and eating well. Still not really taking showers, though.

I've (carefully) crossed my fingers for a kick-ass autumn in Bohuslän!

A Mysterious Fog Thinks It's Hiding in the Mountains

2010-06-16T15:54:00.004-06:00

A Mysterious Fog Hasn't Rolled In...

2010-06-02T09:50:00.005-06:00

A Mysterious Fog Has Rolled In

2010-06-02T09:47:00.004-06:00

Nature Chrissy-poo II and III

2010-05-21T14:04:00.003-06:00

Chris Weidner on Flagstaff Mountain (Boulder, CO)

Nature Chris

2010-05-21T13:34:00.005-06:00

Chris Weidner in an El Paso Coffee Shop

Stretching Tips

2010-05-12T08:44:00.002-06:00

Maybe this is what is missing in my climbing...

It's all about coordination.

It does actually feel pretty good.

Sunny and Dry... in the Southeast?

2010-04-17T06:32:00.001-06:00

I've been driving around this continent since the end of February, looking for good weather in all the usual places... But when snow and wind chased us out of Nevada... wind blew us out of Texas... and two weeks of rain and snow sealed the deal at Indian Creek, my partner and I decided to bust a fat move to Kentucky! If we weren't able to find sun in the desert, and climate statistics were going prove utterly useless- we might as well try out the other side of the US. Destination: Red River Gorge. Where, even if it rains, you can at least climb.

A month into our stay here, we're finally recovering from bouldering tweaks, illnesses, bad-weather-slovenliness, and car break-downs. And we've enjoyed all but a a week's worth of bad weather. (Knock on wood!) The Red seems to be granting us some of the best spring weather in its history-- with the last few weeks even being "too hot"- near 90 F some days. Woah!

Ticks, spiders, snakes, flies, and mosquitoes have come out in full-force with the spring leaves- but you just have to be careful where you step- it's summer here now!

Good news is: Miguel's now has five showers ($1.50/ 8 minutes of *hot* water) and more bathrooms. Camping is still $2/ night/ person and there is on-site wifi ($2/week). Add that up, and living here = cheap!

The state park (Natural Bridge State Resort) immediately across the road has beautiful trail system that's perfect for running and hiking.

Oh yeah... if you're going to drive to Kentucky, it's going to take a while.

Doing time on I-70. Swedish David isn't used to the size of this country.

I still think we're in Kansas, Toto.

Still in Kansas. I thought it was only, like, 15 cm from Utah to Kentucky on the map.

Still in Kansas.

Finally at the Red! Crossing the stream on the way to Funk Rock City.

I love this place...

Steven, my female dog, collecting ticks.

Friend Konrad on a "12.d" at the Shady Grove

Christine needs all the rest she can get. Onsighting at the Solarium.

Sick, bra.

2010-03-08T16:40:00.002-07:00

This is David sending Loaded with Power... it's a lot steeper than it appears in this video.

Hueco Tanks

2010-03-05T15:20:00.001-07:00

Line at the gate. Wednesday morning.

Rest day: triple feature. $1/each on Tuesdays.

"Vantucky" in the theater parking lot.

On tour on West Mountain.

Chris and Heather finally convince us to stop being lame and eat Mexican in El Paso.

David at the Top of the Chains boulders, North Mountain.

Christine's newest (pulley) injury.

Heather, Chris Dean, and Christine

Spinning it.

Shelter from the wind in Chrissy-poo's van.

Hippies.

More waiting in line.

Different waiting: 11pm in N.E. AZ after the alternator fails.

Monument Valley (en route to Indian Creek)

Moonshine Roof

Nature Chrissy-poo

BZN>SLC>Moe's Valley>Zion>Red Rocks>Phoenix

2010-02-11T12:40:00.001-07:00

These photos are quite out of order... but it is a good montage of the last month.

BZN>SLC>Moe's Valley>Zion>Red Rocks>Phoenix

Stevie > Steve > Steven

2010-02-10T11:51:00.001-07:00

About a year ago, Stevie (my female dog) started feeling more grown-up, and didn't want such a baby name anymore.

So we started calling her "Steve".

Recently, though, she's feeling even more mature.